Reinhold Messner

Lore & Background

Messner was born to a German-speaking family in St. Peter, Villnöß, near Brixen in South Tyrol, Italy. His delivery was difficult, occurring during an air raid. He was the second of nine children, growing up in modest means. His father, a strict man who had served in the German army on the Russian front, led Reinhold to his first summit at age five. By age 13, Messner began climbing with his brother Günther, and by their early twenties, they were among Europe's best climbers. Inspired by Hermann Buhl, Messner became an early and enthusiastic supporter of alpine style mountaineering in the Himalayas, using light equipment and minimal external help, in contrast to what he called 'siege tactics.'

His first major Himalayan climb in 1970 was a tragic success: he and his brother Günther reached the summit of Nanga Parbat, but Günther died two days later on the descent. Reinhold lost seven toes to frostbite. In 1978, Messner and Peter Habeler reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen, achieving what many had thought impossible. Messner repeated the feat solo from the Tibetan side in 1980, during the monsoon season. He completed all fourteen eight-thousanders in 1986. Beyond mountaineering, he crossed Antarctica on skis with Arved Fuchs, crossed the Gobi Desert alone, and served as a Member of the European Parliament from 1999 to 2004 for the Federation of the Greens.

Reader's Guide

Reinhold Messner's significance lies in his radical redefinition of high-altitude mountaineering. By championing alpine style—climbing with light equipment and minimal support—he challenged the prevailing expedition model, which he criticized as disrespectful to nature. His 1978 ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen, alongside Peter Habeler, proved that the human body could function at extreme altitudes without bottled oxygen, overturning medical and mountaineering dogma. His solo ascent of Everest in 1980 further demonstrated the possibilities of minimalist climbing. Messner's completion of all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen set a benchmark for mountaineering achievement. His explorations extended to polar and desert environments, including the first crossing of Antarctica without snowmobiles or dog sleds. He also founded the Messner Mountain Museum and co-founded the NGO Mountain Wilderness. His legacy is that of a pioneer who expanded the boundaries of human endurance and redefined the ethics of mountaineering.

Did You Know?

• Messner lost seven toes to frostbite during the 1970 Nanga Parbat expedition in which his brother Günther died.
• He served as a Member of the European Parliament for the Italian Green Party from 1999 to 2004.
• In 2004, he completed a 2,000-kilometre expedition through the Gobi Desert alone.
• He was among the groups who inspected the Ötzi mummy on-site the day after its initial discovery in 1991.